Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Life in the last two weeks was relatively uneventful except for a week's trip to Taipei for a workshop with RICHARD FREEMAN. He's a great teacher but frankly, after this, I won't be attending any yoga workshops soon.

He is living proof that yoga (and perhaps living in Boulder, Colorado) keeps you young. Wouldn't you want to look like this if you were over 60 and can easily do a back bend?

Meanwhile, life in the NEXT TWO WEEKS will probably be even more uneventful as we retreat to the French Alps, also known as our bunker in case the world goes into chaos which means we need to start stocking up on guns and ammo. Notice all that land where I can plant vegetables in case of famine in the free world. (Think: escape plan for 2012--or thereabouts...) Plus our dogs can enter France without quarantine.
I did read some very interesting ideas, apropos for today's life in the international fast lane and/or characters of dubious backgrounds and financial sources of which the world has more than the environment can handle:
(From my favourite media cheat sheet, The Week of 13 June 2009)
"Changing your accent is like using tinted contact lenses: pointless, odd and everyone can always tell." -India Knight in the (London) Sunday Times
To the (London) Times from NWP Cole, London
On British English (but applicable to any culture)
"...When a country abandons its own language, it abandons its identity and culture...far more worrying is the loss of our cultural independence to the United States."
And one final book recommendation before we break for the summer: Pharmakon









Saturday, June 13, 2009

WHEN THE COCO CROWS

Chanel HK invited their VIP customers and the media to screenings of Anne Fontaine's (could she also be of the white shirt fame?)"Coco Avant Chanel". The HK office had three screenings--the first at 2:30 and the last at 7PM for clients who all came in their Chanel finery mostly from the new collection (this is HK afterall). The media screening was at 5PM and despite torrential rains, many people showed up. From matrons to media, everyone was clad in their own interpretation of how to wear Chanel.

Wasn't Oscar material (the film, I mean) but it certainly had the 'best-dressed' movie attendance. This is the controversial poster banned in France (because they have embraced a non-smoking law that also seems to apply to posters) but used in Asia, the last stronghold of smoking.

YES, We got given Coco Pops (corn). Isn't this cute? Of course we had a choice of sweet or salty. They also put a bottle of fizzy water in every seat but without a Chanel bottle holder which they did last time at the couture.

And this is what we got for braving the rains---a sample of Chanel No5. I think the taitais got a nicer gift (of course!) which I think could have been a pillow or large scarf because they had huge bags! Ah--what money can buy!!
(Meanwhile, those who attended the Tiffany's lunch received--get this---a single, miniscule diamond on a chain)
My movie review:
The movie is good but not great, meaning I don't think this is going to win any best picture or best screenplay awards. BUT the film wins by sheer marketing genius. Even if it was not bankrolled by the Chanel company (but they lent them the apartment and clothes) and the set-design was not spectacular because of the period of her life this film covered, it will be a blockbuster in cinemas simply because---WHO DOESN'T OWN AT LEAST ONE THING FROM CHANEL--even if it is just a lipstick? Now that's the market.
(Another personality doing a movie 'about fashion' is Tom Ford)
Take note that the movie title is Coco AVANT Chanel which means the beautiful clothes we know and love don't come out until an hour and half into the film. Meanwhile, you can go through your wardrobe and decide what to wear when the clothes get better which is after the billiards scene. They get even better after Boy Capel dies but by that time it will be the end of the film and the parade of clothes comes down from the mirrored stairway.
Lessons we all can learn from this film aside from independence and hard work:
1) Straight guys don't really care what you wear except perhaps if they are French. In fact, if you dress like a tomboy, they'll probably like it better. (See Boy Capel's reaction to Chanel's early versions of her polished look we know today)
2) A wealthy man is useless if he doesn't let you spend HIS money. (The HK Chinese have a term for this "A safe without the key") Notice that Chanel left the manoir of Etienne Balsan in the same ratty suit she arrived in. Clearly he added nothing to her wardrobe.
3) It's usually better to be a mistress because you get the man (sometimes) and the money (all the time) without the social responsibiltiy. On their first weekend away, Boy Capel takes Chanel to a haberdashery and notions shop to buy fabric. This is probably akin to getting a new dress from Bergdorf's (NOT from the Fifth Floor).
4) Marry for money and it will be very hard work 24/7.
Marry for love and it will be heartache..if not most of the time, eventually.
You do the math. Just make sure you have a key to the safe.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

CLIMB EVERY MON-TAGUT

The sad fashion truth that has China entranced.


More models from the most un-chic of brands. Perhaps like many brands we love today it will be so unchic, it becomes chic.
VERY UNLIKELY. As the company is still private, an IPO is more likely.

Montagut's flagship at the Grand Canal Shoppes (I hate the spelling!) in Macao (where else!).
It may even be the 'choice of high rollers."

Have any of you boys, girls and gheys heard of MONTAGUT?
I have but it's been at least 30 years since I heard the brand uttered and at that time it was in extremely un-chic situations. Think Chinese diaspora family dinner with Montagut pronounced as "Monta-gute..."
That scene was certainly Botox years away from our lunch today at Shiro with a luxury brand representative and a fashion editor. The editor did not even KNOW the brand let alone the fabric it is known for: silky nylon jersey (fil-lumiere as the company labels it), a material that no self-respecting company would even use for disposable underpants today.
HONESTLY, CAN WE TALK? I promise you'll end up laughing like I did (guffawing would be a better word) upon the mere mention of the brand. But the ones who have been laughing all the way to the bank for about 30 years has really been Montagut and their Chinese partners.
HOW DID SUCH CHIC PEOPLE END UP HAVING SUCH AN UN-CHIC CONVERSATION? Remember, we were NOT discussing taste or style but business.
Everytime you discuss industry records or the business of fashion, you will for sure unearth something so unbe-fuckin-lievable that convinces you the fashion world is one of contrasts and indeed on another planet.
We were talking about the state of the luxury goods business (what else does one talk about these days since we can't be buying a bag every week) and about China's second-tier cities. Very good business I have to report because the brand we had lunch with had a fur trunk in Tsingtao and instantly sold TWO ("I'll buy one if you buy one") furs for 700,000 HKD each (that's 100,000 in worthless USD). These women had their hair done once a week for 1500 USD. In Tsingtao.
Yes, Mei-Mei, there is a Santa Claus but he is in a second tier Chinese city.
Of course from Tsingtao we had to move into a worse 'hood, Urumji, smack in the center of the Siberian Pole of Inaccessibility (I'm not kidding--Google it!) where they are opening a luxury mall with LV, Canali and Cartier among the big names.
Then I had to mention an interview I did years ago with a fashion executive who told me that she knew of a brand that sold 30,000 polo shirts a month in Guangzhou. Second tier (but maybe first by now) My guess was it was Hugo Boss because like Ferragamo, they were first movers in China, coming in very early and have emerged winners in sales and brand recognition.
BUT NHHOOO--I was WRONG! It was MONTAGUT and someone at lunch had the figures! Montagut came into China at the same time as Pierre Cardin (and I mean the mushroom PC label and not the couture when they posed on the Great Wall) and look at where they both are now.
Apparently Montagut, with over 3000 points of sale in greater China alone (take that LV and Chanel!), has two collections--one made in China and the more expensive one that averages at about 100 euros which is made in France. YES! They can't make cars in France anymore but they can stil make fil-lumiere Montagut shirts.
They also have fashion shows which feature men and women in the polo shirts. The women parade in shorts with heels and a visor for a 'sporty' look.
In the eyes of many Chinese people, the polo shirts were associated with wealth and romance as its Chinese brand name means "charming dream". Its flower logo added more to the romantic feeling. ....At that time, there were not many western goods available, and the Montagut polo shirt was one of the first high-class items that could be brought there.
I know you fashionistas out there are thinking this cannot be reality but it is! You kids have to get out more like to second-tier cities. Let me leave you with a great story typical of the old Chinese diaspora in the Philippines that epitomizes the popularity of Montagut.
The brand, together with Lacoste (at least they are trying to resuscitate themselves) and Pierre Cardin, was looked at as an expensive brand so much so that when Chinese weddings with their multi-page gatefolded red and gold invites called for 'formal attire,' many Chinese guests would not show up in tuxes or Barong, the Philippines national dress but Montagut!!?? Why? Because it was expensive and imported and expensive and imported from France(!)=formal.
You can take the boy out of China but you can't take the Chinois out of the boy.

BEACH BRIDAL THAT WON"T BREAK THE BANK



One of my editors asked me what she should wear as a guest for a society wedding in Bali. The celebrations would cover three days (at least!) and she did not want to spend a lot of money but she had to look good enough to socialize next to the Matthew Williamsons and Alice Temperleys hanging on social X-ray bodies.
Because it is going to be a wedding at a beach resort known for its Gypset (gypsy jet-setters) residents and visitors, wearing something unpretentious, comfortable and hopefully colourful (and printed or beaded) would be a great choice for every occasion (rehearsal dinner, cocktails, reception, morning after breakfast). Plus you don't need to match shoes to your dress because any sparkly pair of slippers will go with everything.
Personally, I don't like to spend very much on beach attire except on Eres and Wolford swimsuits whose cuts and expensive fabric I feel an 'older' body could benefit from without looking matronly. As far as cover-ups and cocktail attire are concerned, I don't believe in making a splash in Matthew Williamson, Roberto Cavalli, Alice Temperley and similar brands simply because I think their products have no value for money because they can easily be knocked off on the cheap by TopShop and HnM and no one will be able to tell the difference. (Williamson and Cavali have since produced cut-price collections for HnM. SEE??? Wadiditellya??) The most I spend for resort wear is on Pucci because I can understand the value in their printing cost.
I should know. I used to work in a business where my bosses would come to the office bearing a 1000 USD Versace top and say, "Make this for 50 dollars." (This was in the 80s-early 90s before HnM and TopShop had world domination)
It is more difficult to produce a simple, well-cut garment in a good fabric than one that is covered in prints, sequins and ruffles because every pull, every missed stitch, every pucker will be revealed in a garment that needs to be so exact and simple. That is why Jil Sander, Japanese labels and Martin Margiela are still in business. A lot has to be said for precision.
Of course there is something to be said for Dries van Noten whose collection, although covered in sequins and embroidery, has yet to be knocked-off on the cheap. Any production person who looks at his line will tell you, "It will be hard."
The science of textile printing has come a long way since the beginning of seven-screen Pucci or Hermes prints. Of course, print quality will never be the same but who is really looking? HnM and TopShop have produced wonderful prints that can pass for the choice of jet-setting hippies.
Consider the prints above by Sara Harnett (not exactly TopShop prices) as a new way to do resort or beach. Not quite sickly floral, not quite hard graphics but statement-making. Similar prints should flood the High Street soon.
What I love to wear (and many will disagree with me) in tropical resorts AND TOWNS are cotton kurtas. There are available at different price points and in Europe and America, even on the streets. (I get mine from mandarinorangeclothing.com or Madhu Pallo: madhupallo@netvigator.com who does private sales) I wear them when I visit less dressy cities such as Manila, Jakarta, Singapore, Phnom Penh because a) I look fabulous in prints and/or sequins, b) I keep cool and c) I always look 'dressed' even if all I did was throw on a colorful top and white trousers.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

LUXURY GOODS HOUSE OF CARDS


Being part of the international fashion media, I shouldn't be saying this but perhaps the game is up for the luxury goods business (long reputed to be the next bubble after China and dotcoms).
Witness the empty shops in most financial and shopping capitals (not to mention numerous brand name store closures in Russia) and you will feel that the stratospheric prices and certain brands' questionable quality are going to have to come down. SOON. Like this season's sales, perhaps?
(Meanwhile, my retail sources tell me business in poorer economies like Indonesia, the Philippines and Malaysia are bouyant thanks to an established niche market of the wealthy, powerful and perhaps corrupt and un-chic. But who cares as long as there is a market!)
With Lacroix filing for creditor protection, dahling, and Veronique Branquinho zipping up, the outlook is not looking much better for revered fashion houses. Throw into that the boardroom squabbles (Dontallela's shade of tan? Dark orange, darker tangerine?) at Versace with its own image and not to mention business management problems. LV has also halted the construction of yet another Tokyo flagship.
Of course, as an editor and a brand PR manager and I discussed over lunch last week, it's not that people will not spend. They will just be more cautious of what they are purchasing. The public will always want to buy SOMETHING. (Usually something cheap that's why Uniqlo of Japan is reporting profits and stealthily bracing itself for world domination)
The question is, how much longer will this love affair with luxury last and who will be the winners?
Just as I was thinking about the state of global luxury retail, I find this in today's FT: (I have enlarged key sections for the internet-generation's reading impaired):

Japanese fall out of love with luxury
By Michiyo Nakamoto in Tokyo
Published: June 2 2009 19:17 Last updated: June 2 2009 19:17

Japan’s trend-chasing office workers and ladies who lunch are giving up Louis Vuitton handbags and Chanel jackets for Zara dresses and Gap jeans, making what was a favourite market for luxury manufacturers into one of their biggest headaches.

The downturn is forcing customers in Japan to scale back purchases of luxury goods, accelerating a long-term shift in consumer attitudes, according to a report by McKinsey, the consultants.

“This is not a blip. This is a long-term shift in the market,” said Brian Salsberg, the author of a McKinsey report on the Japanese luxury goods market, the world’s second largest.
Sales of imported luxury goods suffered a 10 per cent drop last year to Y1,064bn ($11.1bn), according to a study published on Tuesday by Yano Research, a Japanese market research group.
Yano Research forecast that the market would shrink further this year, falling below Y1,000bn to nearly half the peak of Y1,897bn in 1996 and then shrinking to levels last seen 20 years ago before it entered its era of strong growth.
LVMH, the group with brands ranging from Moët to Louis Vuitton, reported an 18 per cent drop in sales in Japan in yen terms in the first quarter.
While luxury sales throughout the world are being hit by the recession, Mr Salsberg said that the implications of the latest slump for Japan were likely to be more serious and long-lasting.
Japan became the world’s “only mass luxury market” in the 1980s and early 1990s, when Japanese consumers saw ownership of a Louis Vuitton bag or Hermes scarf as a middle-class rite of passage.
But the growing confidence of shoppers in mixing and matching cheap and expensive products, coupled with competition from a growing array of luxury services such as spas and expensive restaurants, have robbed the brands of their hold on such spending.
Mr Salsberg said the brand makers, which created “a luxury bubble” with “a ridiculous number of store build-outs”, bore some blame for their predicament. He warned that they risked repeating the mistake in China.
China was the “growth story” for luxury but if makers flooded the market with stores as in Japan and people were able to buy such goods on every street corner, “the industry is going to destroy itself” there, he said.

Copyright The Financial Times Limited 2009

Thursday, May 28, 2009

THE DREAM MACHINE

Reader "Rosanna" asked, "How do I get my dream job?" As I mentioned in an earlier post, this is a loaded question simply because there are very few people who can answer it. I bet people in HR or recruiting don't even like their jobs!

In my lifetime I have only met TWO people who said they have their dream jobs. And the second person I only met this week!! Worse, I only met the first person this time last year!!

Clearly I don't have experience in giving employment advice but I will do my best.

It seems to me that the ideal job will be something you like to do which people will pay you for. Being good at it is also a huge bonus. For many of us, that would be watching TV, gossiping and surfing the net but we don't get paid for it. I don't even know how to watch TV because I can't turn on the TV in any of my homes. But I can do it easily in hotels.

Gossiping will be a good job--look at Liz Smith, Perez Hilton and Richard Johnson who have made careers out of it---but not many can do it well and profitably (Like I'm afraid Perez Hilton's incoming is not enough to cover his outgoing legal costs).

However, for us mere career mortals, what to do?

For some reason this week, I discussed careers with one too many people in different cities that I felt I was running a regional recruitment agency. These discussions made me look back at my own career and in retrospect, I did hold my dream jobs only at that time I didn't know it.

I always wanted to work in the fashion business and at the start, I was bent on being a merchandiser or designer. But when a boy named Marc Jacobs in the classroom next to yours gets a job at Charivari and your teacher says that buyers at Saks are never going to leave, you lose hope.

It gets worse when you get closed out of all the design classes you wanted except a garment production class held in a dark room filled with unglamorous sewing and cutting machines. Your classmates are other losers who couldn't get into the glamorous courses.

Your teacher happened to be the production manager of then-famous denim company, Marithe et Francois Girbaud. And she said ONE THING that completely changed your view of fashion and changed the course of your career. "I know many of you are here and disappointed that you have been closed out of design classes. Little do people know that if you go into production you will start at more money and do just as much travel as any designer. The only difference is that you will spend more time in factories."

Money? Travel? I'M FUCKIN' THERE!! You could have told me I was going to become a prositute and I'd still have been first in line!!

"You may not know this," she continued, "But as a production manager you can make as much money and do as much traveling in the same way as a designer. Same hotels, same class of travel and the reason for this is financial responsibility. Production is very important to any company because it is where money is generated. And lost. It is also a direct line to owners."

I found this to be true in my first job in the Los Angeles garment industry. And there was no other department in a garment company that was more important to the owners than production. Sales reports come out everyday but daily discussions usually happen only during market weeks when majority of the sales are done. In most companies, wherever you are or the boss is in the world, you have to discuss numbers, total shipped units and 'cuts' at the end of EVERY SINGLE DAY. I think the Hollywood equivalent are rushes.

But it wasn't easy to get there. I finished school at about the time financial turmoil hit Wall Street in the famous Black Monday of October 1987 so jobs were not exactly falling onto my lap while I sat at my desk dreaming about a job.

I had to look and even when I found my first job, selling shoes at Joan and David in Beverly Hills, it wasn't exactly my dream job although many movie stars came through the store.

But it was a job and better than nothing. This is where lack of pride served me well. I was so desperate, I took anything!! (Which I think is a good thing)

However, if you harbour the dream, sometimes the tooth fairy arrives in the form of a regular customer who asked me, "What do you really want to do with your life? Surely not just selling shoes...."

I told her and the following week was my interview with the head of patterns at Carole Little, then a very big sportswear label. It wasn't exactly my dream job but it was a foot in the door that would open to many dream jobs to come.

But I realized that only now, in retrospect.

I had the money, the travel, the positions (which I worked up from) and the jobs that I really enjoyed with respected Southern California labels. It also helped that they were not very expensive labels as I believe (even if I am a snob at heart) great clothes and fashion should be accessible to everyone. There is a huge difference in quality and service between cheap and expensive goods but everyone should be able to dress well on a budget. As Karl said, "It doesn't matter if an HnM jacket falls apart but if a Chanel jacket falls apart, it's a crime!"

(Today I only wear French labels--except for Fendi-- but there was I time, when I was working in LA that I only wore American because I worked for Americans)

But enough about me. I want to tell you about the only two people I know who have their dream jobs. One similarity they have is that they love the products they sell but they also happen to work for leading names in their respective industries. (Okay, hint: one works for a bank whose stock went down to 1 USD but didn't they all?) The 'names' don't have to be particularly big(although the bank is) but it has to be a brand that has a good reputation both to insiders and end consumers. That always helps and that makes selling particularly easier.

If you ask someone working in their dream job what they like about it, they will usually tell you it's the product or "I like thinking of ideas for clients," but (and there's always a but) they will always say, "BUT... I don't like the admin work or the politics."

Don't we all?? In fact, if you think about it, what REALLY makes you hate your job is the admin and/or the politics. In short, the people!!! They always drive you crazy!! (Which has always been my problem and this is why I think zoo keepers, vets and museum specialists REALLY love their jobs because you are either working with animals who never talk back and are only too happy to be fed, dead people or animals or artifacts that tell a story without speaking)

There is also the subject of determination. This week, I was talking to a friend about how the standards of media staff in (fill in developed Asian country) are so low that they accept mediocre applicants from (fill in Third World English speaking country).

The reply? "They got their jobs not really from ability but sheer determination."

My advice:

A) 1/3 desperation + 2/3 determination = dream job (of course, you will have to identify this for yourself!)

B) As much as I advise you to 'take anything', that only applies for entry level or wanting a change. At all other levels, ALWAYS DO IT FOR MONEY!! Never for love. Not ever. Although I know some success stories, it's the riskiest thing. I would never advise it.

My next entry will be on a far more easier topic---dressing for a tropical wedding.



Tuesday, May 19, 2009

THROW HER TO THE LIONS (CITY)

There will be no entries until the beginning of June because I will be in Singapore for a week and after that I KNOW I will be busy with other deadlines such as the ones that pay me REAL money.